Osso Buco alla Milanese

Osso buco is Italian for marrow bone (osso = bone, buco = hole), but it’s best to leave it untranslated. “Milanese marrow bone” doesn’t begin to do justice to the grand, hefty thick slices of veal shank customary in a proper osso buco. The other day, I watched one of the Ottomanelli brothers, my neighborhood butchers in Greenwich Village, tie the meat up tightly around a whole shank before he sawed it into 2- and 3-