Anna Maria Schwarzenberg sent us to Figlmüller in the Wollzeile near the Stephansdom, Vienna’s cathedral, for the best schnitzel in town. She ought to know, we thought, since her mother, the princess, was Austria’s most famous feinschmecker. Figlmüller is a tourist attraction but not a tourist trap. In a pleasantly boisterous atmosphere, it serves enormous breaded veal cutlets, pounded thin so that they are larger than their plate. With salad and a glass of wine (no
