Escoffier really set the culinary world twittering in 1907 when he released his famous A Guide to Modern Cookery. In this work he commented upon the use of pure starch in the preparation of a roux for sauces. He said, “It is only habit that causes flour to be still used as the cohering element of roux ... with a roux made from the purest starch ... a sauce Espagnol may be made in one hour ... and be clearer ... and better than that of the old processes which needed three days at least to despumate.” In this recipe I have used the new gluten-reduced flour, a flour specially processed to remove the gluten content. It is not the pure starch to which Escoffier refers, but it does do the job that he specified sixty odd years ago when this modern flour process could not have been anticipated.
© 1966 Graham Kerr. All rights reserved.