Golden Gefilte Fish with Golden Horseradish

My father’s mother baked whitefish smothered with chopped tomatoes, onions, and peppers, and served it cold for Sabbath meals. The only fish I remember my maternal grandmother making was canned tuna, mixed with hard-boiled eggs and onions.

So I’ve had to invent my own family recipe for gefilte fish—for many, the defining dish of Ashkenazi cuisine. I’d eaten some very good versions at dairy restaurants, and tasted even more delicious ones in the evocative prose of Yiddish writers. I