With several helpers, she brought platters of cold sweet-and-sour fish, stewed meat, and roasted chicken, flasks of lemonade, baskets filled with rolls and hard white pretzels, bowls of sauerkraut sprinkled with sugar, and plates filled with freshly pickled cucumbers as cold as ice.
CHAIM GRADE, “THE REBBETZIN”
I love pickles, though they never live up to their smell: a sirensong of heady garlic, spicy peppercorns, and other enticing aromatics. Crunchy and cold, they provide refreshing respite from the dryness and density of unsauced meats, especially in sandwiches and simple grills.
Eating carnatzlach, I grew tired of alternating one bite of barbecued meat with a juicy chew of pickle, so I turned the pickle into this sauce.
This garlicky Romanian grill is wonderful anytime, but it is particularly appealing for casual summer meals. If you’re cutting down on beef, well-seasoned turkey is a good substitute here.
© 2000 Jayne Cohen. All rights reserved.