Intense Apricot Applesauce

When my father came home from his Saturday night gin game on Sunday morning, he would often bring lox, bagels, and bialys from The Delicacy Shop, the Jewish appetizing store in our Long Island community. When the triple “schnides” (from “Schneiders”—gin rummy shutouts) were in his favor, we’d awaken to a breakfast of salmon in its many other guises—baked, pickled, and smoked Nova Scotia—style—as well as sable, whitefish, herring in sour cream sauce, scallion cream cheese, and beefsteak toma