They had a silver Hanukkah menorah full of the finest oil with a large shamash candle ready to kindle the other wicks. Nothing but the best. From the kitchen one could smell the heavenly aroma of freshly rendered goose fat.
“We’re having latkes tonight,” Benny told me as we stood at the door, and my stomach rumbled with hunger!
SHOLOM ALEICHEM, “BENNY’S LUCK”
It comes as no surprise that, as with other Jewish foods, there is no definitive way to make a potato latke. Most cooks use raw potatoes, but some grate boiled potatoes. And a few use a combination of both.
When made entirely of cooked potatoes, latkes, to my palate, are not latkes at all, but croquettes: they lack the requisite crunch and the deeply satisfying fried potato taste that are the hallmarks of the genus. But adding
In this recipe, I swirl savory frizzled onions into the cooked potato before combining it with the grated raw potato. The latke fries up with a thin, crackly potato crust enclosing an airy, onion-luscious mashed potato center.
© 2000 Jayne Cohen. All rights reserved.