Hot, plump, they glisten, the latkes, with pearls of fat, and they jump on the fire like newborn little babies when they are slapped with the hand. We watch the cook as though she were a magician.
“Havah, the thick latke is for me, isn’t it?”
BELLA CHAGALL, BURNING LIGHTS
Not even Merlin, though, could make the magic of a potato pancake last the full eight days of the holiday, and after a while, my search for something different turns into an obsession.
These scallion latkes, reminiscent of those savory little pancakes served as dim sum, make use of ancient Chinese wisdom. The bracing, clean flavors of ginger, vinegar, and soy provide a sparkling antidote to the oily richness, as well as welcome respite from the ubiquitous sour cream. Of course, if you prefer, you can still serve the latkes with sour cream or yogurt cream.
© 2000 Jayne Cohen. All rights reserved.