Fish in Potato Latke Crust with Horseradish Cream

It’s not the potato latke (pancake)—or even a latke at all—that is required eating on Hanukkah. It is food fried in oil.

Each year, however, brings a new slew of picture books on Tante something-or-other’s latkes, and for many Jews, especially the children, it’s hard to sever the Hanukkah-latke connection.

But crisp, fried latkes do not a meal make, though many nights they consume all my family’s appetite and my kitchen time as well.

At such times, I dip fish fillets