“Drumstick” Chicken Wings

Chicken wings deserve far more recognition than they are usually given. To me, they are the best part of the chicken, since the meat is juicy and tender, what the Chinese call “live” meat. They cook easily, acquire flavor readily, and have that nice contrasting texture of soft meat and firm skin. With just a little care and finesse, you can do wonders with them. Here they are coated with a glazy sauce. Use either—it is hard to say which is better.