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By Irene Kuo
Published 1977
Cooking with wine is a time-honored Chinese practice. Wine is used to enrich a sauce, to diminish the fishiness of seafood, to lighten the heaviness of meat, and to anchor the delicate flavors of vegetables. In China the wine used for cooking comes from Shaohsing and is named for that city. It resembles dry sherry in color and taste, and that is a standard substitute in the United States. Besides wine, Chinese cooking also uses wine rice and wine lees (wine rice is a white liquid mixture of