Fresh Salted Pressed Pork

Chenkong, a city 150 miles west of Shanghai, gives China in addition to its outstanding rice vinegar an extraordinary pork, salted with salt and saltpeter, which is known as hsiao meat.

There were rules for the making and cutting of this pork in the old days. The first stated that the cut should be a 10-pound pork shoulder or fresh ham.

The meat was speared all over wit