Beef with Leeks

Leeks, larger and meatier and sweeter than scallions, are used a great deal in the northern parts of China. Traditionally they are combined raw with this highly seasoned meat, serving as a cushion to be tossed at table before being eaten. Finding them too coarse, I modify by stir-frying them with a little salt and sugar, which makes them brighter in color and silkier in texture. Served around the reddish-colored meat, they make a lovely presentation.