By Irene Kuo
Plain, seasoned only with salt, this celery retains much of its own refreshing flavor. Briefly stir-fried and steam-cooked in hot oil, it also acquires a delightful “nutty” aftertaste. Icy green with a bright overcast of yellow, it’s an inviting vegetable that goes especially well with red-cooked or spicy meats, poultry, or seafood. It is also excellent when cold or chilled.