Cold-Stirred Bean Sprouts

The tails of the bean sprouts (the final tip) were always removed in China. Carrying vivid memories of Liu-ma and her squad of helpers plucking the bean sprouts while sharing hot tea and gossip in the lull of the afternoon, I embarked on such an endeavor that began and ended there and then—it took no less than 1 hour and 3 minutes to pluck 1 pound of bean sprouts, which then took less than 1 minute to cook and less than 5 to eat.

This is a delightfully refreshing salad, even if the