Almond Jelly with Lichees and Loquats

In the old days, before gelatin powder, almond extract, and evaporated milk were introduced to China, this was made with ground almonds and dissolved agar-agar. Known also as almond “bean curd,” it is meltingly smooth—one of the very few cold desserts China has to offer besides fresh or preserved fruits on ice.

This jelly is white, and creamier and softer than regular Jell-O. It is not overly sweet, and its almond flavor goes beautifully with the fruit. It’s