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4–5
as a main dish .Medium
Published 1982
As a graduate student studying for master’s exams and deprived of most of life’s sensual pleasures, I became addicted to smoked chicken. This great, northern Chinese treat was made regularly by a broad and beaming Taiwanese woman who ran a mom-and-pop deli not far from Princeton, and while the window advertised “Italian Bangers” and a shelf of pornography magazines lined one wall, I knew that far better than all those chickens were the home-smoked ones that lay secreted behind the co