Phoenix Tail Shrimp

This is the fried shrimp of China—a whole, shelled shrimp with its red tail left on for a handle, dipped in batter, than deep-fried to a crispy golden brown. The body of the shrimp, slit partway and flattened, spreads upon frying to an appealing-looking fan. This is the phoenix tail, one more example of how the Chinese love to lyricize food and elevate it above the merely chewable.

• This is a lively, if somewhat unorthodox, rendition of a classic. The sesame see