Deep-Fried Shrimp Balls

Classic Chinese shrimp balls are traditionally smooth-textured affairs, made from a paste that one squeezes into balls between one’s fist. Here is something different—the same shrimp purée enlivened with ginger and diced water chestnuts that must be rolled with great gentility between greased palms. They are charmingly irregular when fried and very delicious, traditionally shaped or not.

• Shrimp balls make wonderful appetite arousers for a sit-down dinner, a sta