Steamed Whole Fish with Seared Scallions

For simplicity, clarity, and purity of flavor, I can think of nothing more appealing than a perfectly steamed fish. When I am worn out from cooking, eating, or just plain living, it is the dish I always turn to.

• You need little else but a splendidly fresh whole fish. Black sea bass, available on the East Coast, is my favorite; flounder, porgy, or walleye pike are other choices. Look for a fish with red gills, clear, bright eyes, and a firm, delicate-tasting fle