Spicy Steamed Salmon with Young Ginger

When I moved to San Francisco, two things caught my eye immediately in the local markets. One was giant fresh salmon, shiny silver on the outside and blazing ruby-red within, like no fish I had ever seen. The other was what in Chinese is called “tender” or “young” ginger, an antler-like root that looks much like the familiar, dark-skinned ginger, but is sheathed in a thin, blonde-gold skin from which sprout beautifully pale pink and green shoots. I quickly took to pairing them in a simple,