Strange Flavor Fish

In China, the presentation of a whole fish—either steamed or deep-fried as here—traditionally concludes the meal on a bountiful note. “Here is fish” is the homonym for “here is abundance,” so everyone leaves the table feeling full of fish and symbolic richness. It is much like ending a meal with a cornucopia of fruit, our own Western emblem of plenty.

• This is my favorite Chinese fish dish, bar none—a crisp whole fish topp