Stir-Fried Spicy Clams in Black Bean Sauce

I love very tiny, tender clams, and when I can get them I treat them (and me) to this simple stir-fry, and pile the meat-filled shells and the heady sauce on a bed of steamed noodles. It satisfies my north Chinese love for noodles and garlic, and my south Chinese appreciation of clams dressed richly in an unctuous black bean sauce.

• The accompaniments are all open to change—more or less garlic, more or less chili, depending on mood and menu, and rice, or better