Master Sauce Mushrooms

Already lush-tasting Chinese black mushrooms become almost decadently so when steeped in rich master sauce. You should serve them as you would fresh truffles—whole, if you wish to be lavish, or cut into thin strips if you wish to be lavishly discreet.

• Chinese dried black mushrooms come in two varieties. The best for this dish are “flower mushrooms,” the thick-capped sort that is plusher. You can spot them immediately by the white, flower-like lines that crack t