Spinach with Glass Noodles

This is one of those rare dishes that is exceedingly simple yet very special. Its charm is the play of texture and color between velvety green spinach and slippery glass noodles. It’s an easy dish to make, with remarkable appeal.

• Like all Chinese spinach stir-frys, this one profits from the inclusion of the tender stems and rosy root ends. Most important, however, are lively and perfect spinach leaves. Wilted or battered leaves are not worth cooking here.