Mandarin Pancakes

In Chinese, the name for these supple, flour and water crepes is “thin bing” (bing meaning “round, flat thing”). We call them mandarin pancakes in English because they are a feature of north and central China as opposed to the south, and because pancakes as we know them are also thin-round-flat things. The job of the Chinese pancake is to embrace a filling—usually something sultry and steaming, and less often something cool and spicy. Four fillings are given, and any two, three, or e