Crunchy Greens with Roasted Chilli Jeow

Two New World foods, unknown in South East Asia a few hundred years ago, have been enthusiastically embraced: chillies and tomatoes. Here they are combined in a salsa-like Laotian sauce, their tastes intensified and made smoky by roasting. This can be done either over flames, threading the vegetables onto skewers and turning over the heat until charred, or in a hot oven. There are no quiet flavours, rather acidic heat interrupted by the impolite, salty oomph of fish sauce.

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