Steamed Fish Parcels with Lemongrass

Banana leaves are nature’s tin foil, with a waxy surface that makes them strong and waterproof. (They also make a good umbrella if you are caught in monsoon rain.) In this Javanese recipe, the fish is flavoured with fresh spices and the leaf wrappings themselves, which impart a subtle herbaceous note. Open at the table to release aromatic steam, balmy with lemongrass, and a tender piece of fish.

Trip along the spice routes and you’ll find fish parcels in many cultures. In Thailand,