Smoky Aubergine Bharta

Alchemy happens when aubergine is cooked long enough for it to slump, its squeaky flesh transformed to delightful silkiness. If you char it over flames, the fire-fanged smokiness takes it to another level still. Irresistible.

The smoky aubergine purées that have caught the spotlight are from the Middle East: baba ghanoush, mutabal, mirza ghasemi. But aubergines are an Indian native, taken west by Persians who in turn introduced them to the Arab world. This is a recipe from the Punja