Kedgeree

When I first came to England, I remember being very surprised to find kedgeree on the breakfast menu of the hotel we stayed in – rice for breakfast I was used to, but not with toast and butter. After thirty years, my English husband will still only eat rice at breakfast if there is really nothing else; but his generation did not spend their working lives ‘up country’ in India or Malaya.

Oriental dishes which became popular in eighteenth- or nineteenth-century Europe were usually, an