An Iranian friend in Oxford, Soraya Tremaine, gave me this recipe. It can also be made with chicken, but kid – young goat’s meat – is especially delicious. My choice would be the cutlets taken from the best end of neck of goat or lamb, or the whole leg of a lamb or kid. The leg needs to be scored deeply before it is marinated in yogurt, then roasted for 40–45 minutes in the oven at 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4, then sliced before the final cooking with the rice. With cutlets, the