Green Papaya Salad with Dried Beef Liver

GOOD FRIENDS JEAN AND BI TOOK ME TO THEIR FAVOURITE STREET STALL. IT IS ON HAI BA TRUNG, ONE OF SAIGON’S LONGEST AND BUSIEST STREETS. WE APPROACH A LADY WHO GIVES US A PLASTIC TILE EACH, TO SIT ON UNDER A TREE. SHE ASKS HOW MANY GREEN PAPAYA SALADS WE WANT, THEN SCREAMS FROM THE TOP OF HER LUNGS ACROSS THE ROAD, THROUGH THE NOISE OF HUNDREDS OF MOTORBIKES, INTO THE EARS OF A LADY WITH A CART PARKED ON THE ROAD OPPOSITE – ‘THREE SERVES!!’ MINUTES LATER, A YOUNG GIRL CROSSES THE ROAD, DODGES