WE ALL SQUEEZE AROUND A SMALL WOODEN TABLE OUTSIDE MY FAMILY’S HOME. THE TABLE BELONGS TO A SOUP VENDER, AND WE WAIT PATIENTLY FOR HER TO SELL OUT OF HER SOUP BEFORE WE TAKE OVER. THE TABLE HAS A HOLE CUT OUT IN THE MIDDLE TO ALLOW THE COAL TO BURN. WE PLACE OUR STEAMBOAT POT ON TOP AND SURROUND IT WITH AN ARRAY OF FRESH SEAFOOD, VEGETABLES AND HERBS. THE STEAMBOAT BEGINS TO BOIL AND IN WE GO — CHOPSTICKS FLYING HERE AND THERE, EVERYONE DUNKING, DIPPING AND DEVOURING.