With the same smooth texture and pale cream colour, this does indeed resemble the classic ‘brandade’, made from salt cod, olive oil and hot milk.
Skin the trout and carefully remove the fillets. Pick out any remaining bones (I keep a pair of tweezers in my kitchen drawer for just this sort of job), and put the flesh in a food processor or blender with the cream and half the lemon juice. Process until smooth, then, with the motor still running, pour the olive oil in a thin stream on to the creamed trout. It should amalgamate and form a thick, shiny cream. Alternatively, you can do the whole thing by hand, first mashing the fish with a fork, mixing in the cream and lemon juice, and then beating in the oil until you have a rich glossy mass. Season to taste with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and add more lemon juice if you think it is needed. Serve with hot toast.
You can prepare smoked salmon and smoked mackerel in the same way.
See also potted smoked trout, under Variations for Potted Crab.
© 1995 Frances Bissell. All rights reserved.