Caroline Yates, one of the senior staff at Leith’s School of Food and Wine, produced this when I joined the principals and teachers there for lunch one day. She used very mature mushrooms, almost black, which resulted in a stunning combination of dark roulade filled with a white cream. It would make an excellent cold starter or main course, and can be prepared several hours in advance.
Line a shallow rectangular Swiss roll tin with buttered baking parchment, and flour it lightly. Make a roux with half the butter and the flour, and put it to one side. In a very large frying pan, sweat the shallots in the remaining butter, and then add the mushrooms. Cook them thoroughly on a fairly high heat to extract as much of their moisture as possible. Cool slightly and put in a food processor with the roux, a little seasoning and the egg yolks. Process until smooth. Whisk the egg whites until stiff, and gently fold them into the mushroom mixture. Turn this into the prepared baking tin, smooth over, and
Soften the cream cheese, and whip the double cream. Fold together, and at the same time fold in the toasted pinenuts. Unroll the sponge when cool, spread the cream on it, and reroll. Cover and refrigerate until required. Slice and serve.
© 1995 Frances Bissell. All rights reserved.