St Valentine was the martyred bishop of Terni. Terni is in Umbria, not far from Norcia, which is famous for its black truffles. Here the truffles are said to be at their best approaching carnival time, just before Lent, which makes them a fitting dish to serve for St Valentine’s Day. I thought of this as I sat in a very ordinary restaurant not too far from Terni, eating a plate of Spaghetti alla Norcina. It was the only thing on the menu that tempted me, and such was the restaurant that I h