Sfenj

On a muddy and miserable winter’s morning, the bench and brazier in the shop where fritters are made welcome and cheer me with their heat and strong-smelling squalor alleviated by the sweet scent of mint.

Abdallah brings in the tea. Sitting with the artisans in their jellabas on their way to Moulay ldriss and the workmen in jeans just off to their jobs, I savour this comforting breakfast taken by rich and poor alike with a glass of boiling mint tea into which they dip the hot