Calves’ Liver Par Excellence

Both lamb’s and calves’ liver need only a moment’s cooking. The other important thing–which I believe, though butchers tell me it should make no difference is the colour of the liver: in my experience the paler the liver the more mild and tender it is.

The best calves’ liver I have ever eaten was not, as you might imagine, in Italy, but in Switzerland. My parents were living in Berne and when I came out for the school holidays the first thing I would ask for was the wonderful calves