This is a recipe I worked out years ago after a visit to Mr Bey’s house in Istanbul. His cook was in fact Austrian, but she produced many excellent Turkish dishes and made use of all the local ingredients which she bought in the incomparable Istanbul food markets. This is not jelly as we know it; it can’t be turned out of a mould and it certainly doesn’t wobble. Instead it is smooth and opaque with a strong, sharp lemon flavour which makes it perfectly refreshing after a ri