Years ago, newly married, my husband and I went on an exciting journey through Iran, which we then thought of as Persia. Years and years before us, Robert Byron had travelled there and written a wonderful book called ‘The Road to Oxiana’. Several times we tried to retrace his footsteps exactly and one day we really felt that we were seeing the country as he had seen it, even though we were in a car and he had been on horseback. This w