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Published 2008
Often, on Sunday mornings when I’m expecting guests for lunch, I leave the house before anyone is up and drive to the magnificent market in the medieval town of Houdan, near Rouen. One of the fish stalls there is a makeshift huddle of trestle tables at the back of a refrigerated van that arrives direct from the harbour in Le Havre. The van is filled straight from the boats there, there has been no detour via the Parisian wholesale market of Rungis, so the fish is spanking fresh. Sunday lunc
