Foie Gras Mi-Cuit Truffée

The ultimate in Christmas luxury, as prepared by goose-breeder Madame Deffaud of Le Clapier near Le Coux in the Dordogne valley. She also owns a small plantation of mycelium-treated truffle-oaks hidden behind a blackthorn hedge, although she calls on her neighbour, an accomplished truffler, to crop them. When choosing a fattened liver, look for firmness and paleness — ivory, lightly tinged with pink. If it looks very yellow, it’ll be too fatty. Check for signs of green staining, an i