My friend Isabel Rutherford goes off every year to Skye. She stalks and, in her gum boots, climbs mountains that would challenge Sir Edmund Hilary. She returns with a battered ten-year-old stag, which even hounds might disdain, and serves it up chargrilled and tender as best fillet. I have wrung out of her the secret, although she is frightfully airy about this magic trick which even Escoffier might envy.