Stew of Quinces and Lamb with Saffron and Split Peas

Mrs. Simin Samiy of the Caspian Tea Room in Washington, D.C., prepares this dish in the comfortable restaurant and pastry shop that she runs with her husband, Fatola. In their native Iran, relatively small quantities of meat are cooked in combination with fruits, vegetables, and grains, serving more as a rich flavoring medium than a main ingredient. Thus, a dish such as the one that follows would contain more quince and split peas and less meat if prepared Iranian style and more meat if pre