Brochettes of Lamb Parts

Choose - or ask your butcher to choose — pale-colored kidneys. Dark, reddish-brown kidneys are always strong-flavored; pale rose-beige-colored kidneys are delicately flavored. If any of these meats is unavailable, substitute calf’s liver or kidney, sweetbreads, pre-prepared as for braising, or pieces of lean lamb filet or top of the leg.

Caul is not only a nourisher and, as the threads of fat melt to golden-brown lace, a beautiful dressing, but it is a container which holds everythi