Brochettes of Scallops, Monkfish and Bacon

In wine regions where little or no white wine is made, vignerons prefer to ignore the rules that forbid the marriage of red wines with seafood and are none the worse off for that. In May and June, when shad is fished from the Gironde, it appears, grilled, at all tables, as often as not accompanied by a red wine. It is also at this season that elvers (pi bales or ci ve lies), translucent, thread-like baby eels, wrap themselves by the millions into balls and roll across the ocean floor