Take a fine ripe pineapple and cut the top off, about two inches from the little trimming of leaves; scoop out all the flesh as neatly as possible, remove the hard parts, mix it with castor sugar and a port-glassful of either kirschwasser or rum, or maraschino, according to taste, and put the mixture back in the pineapple, not forgetting to cut a slice off the bottom so that it can stand properly when you serve it. The pineapple should then remain about two hours, packed in ice, with its top on.