Aunt Gwen’s Cold Shape (!)

• 1 calf head, quartered
• salt, pepper, bay, herbs as desired
• ½ cup

Remove most of fat, and the brains (save for another dish), ears, eyes, and snout (a kindly butcher will do this for the finicky). Soak for ½ hour in cold water, wash off, cover with cold water, and simmer until the meat starts to fall from the bones. Drain in large colander over another kettle, saving all the cooking liquor. Dice the meat (“in pretty pieces,” Aunt Gwen directed), add the stock