I don’t buy fish at supermarkets; it can be as much as two weeks old. But their competition means that if you do have the luxury of a local fishmonger, he will probably be very good. In Istanbul markets the fish are displayed with their gills turned out, frilly and red like a houri’s petticoats, so that the question of freshness can be decided at a glance. There may or may not be crushed ice: these fish won’t hang about.
In the meantime there’s a lot to be said for cooking with paper and string, in cartoccio. Your little parcels will seal in flavour and they look incredibly enticing on a plate. The surprise is that the parcels aren’t baked, but poached.
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