John and Berrin Scott, who produce the world’s best magazine, Cornucopia, took me into the Belgrade Forest to see the reservoirs built by Sinan to supply Istanbul with fresh water. On the way we pulled into a village in the hills where they had heard of a good place to eat. It was a sort of truck stop, and we ordered kurufasulye, as John and Berrin always do, looking for the very best. White beans, fasulye, are the base food of Turkey, its pasta or potato – what my mother referred to as the padding. In Italian, they are called fasoglio.